A new Siena Shirt with Perfect Points

This is my new Perfect Points Siena Shirt! The pairing is fabric from the Perfect Points collection from Windham Fabrics with one of my go-to patterns from the Sewing Workshop, the Siena Shirt.

The Siena Shirt [Sewing Workshop pattern] with Perfect Points [Windham Fabrics].

You gotta love the classic Pickle Dish and Ohio Star patchwork blocks that have perfect points—without having to piece them yourself or deal with all the seam allowances. Easy peasy, right? And who doesn’t love a graphic black-and-white geometric print?!

The Siena Shirt with Perfect Points.

High density cotton fabric

The Perfect Points I and Perfect Points II collections [from Windham Fabrics] are printed on high density cotton. The thread count is 150 threads per sq. in. (75 x 75) making the fabric soft, smooth and so lovely to wear next to the skin. I used Scanfil organic, long staple, cotton thread in 50 wt. for sewing with a Universal 80/12 machine sewing needle. A Scanfil 30 wt. cotton was used for the button holes

Auditioning buttons for the Siena Shirt.

 

Construction challenges

What was I thinking?? I had two different fabric prints, both with strong designs. The Siena Shirt has several pattern pieces—left and right fronts, a button band, front and back side panels, and sleeves—that required pattern matching at the seams if the shirt was going to have a cohesive look. 

Anticipating the pattern matching at the sleeve and side panel seam.

The critical areas for the pattern matching:

• the bodice fronts with the bodice side panels,
• the bodice back with the back side panels,
• at the sleeves where the cap meets the shoulder seam, and
• where the sleeves meet the bodice side panels,
• the button band with the bodice front.

Pattern matching at the sleeves and the bodice.

The pickle dish design at the yoke and collar had to be centered and square. The Ohio Star print was also centered at the back (for the box pleat). All of these critical areas required accurate placement of the paper pattern on the fabric and careful pinning, cutting, and sewing.

Back view: centering the fabric designs on the collar, back yoke, and shirt back.

I actually cut out three different sleeves—trying to best position the design to make a cohesive look. This was definitely a “learn as you go” construction process.

Three sleeves cut at different places.

A more perfect pattern for Perfect Points

Although I absolutely adore the Siena Shirt pattern (I’ve made it over 6 times now), were I to use fabric from the Perfect Points collections for another garment, I would use a pattern with fewer pattern pieces. A front and back… and possibly a sleeve pattern piece… is all that’s needed to showcase the fun Perfect Points patchwork designs but make the garment much easier to construct. 

Better pattern choices for tops from my pattern stash would be the Wiksten Top and the Nine Lives top. Both have minimal pattern pieces and I’ve made both of these in the past. Or if you have a coat/jacket pattern with minimal pattern pieces, these prints would make a great “quilt coat.” 

Patterns with minimal number of pattern pieces:
Wiksten Top and Nine Lives top 

And there’s always quilts, bags, home dec items (pillows, runners, toppers, etc.) that would be so easy by just fussy cutting pieces or quilt blocks from these fabrics. And the points would all be perfect!

A Make Nine 2025 finish

This Perfect Points shirt fulfills my “Make it Again” prompt for Make Nine 2025. With the first six months of the year behind us, I have 6 of 9 Make Nine projects completed. I consider this fabulous progress!

Make it Again prompt, Make Nine 2025.

Make Nine 2025 tracker, June 29.

As we wrap up the month of June, here is my wish for you, “May your bobbin always be full and your points always match!”

My Perfect Points Siena Shirt.

Cold Front = long sleeves or jackets?

We awoke to mid 50-degree temperatures this morning. The cold front came through overnight and the upcoming week is predicted to be in the mid-60s to mid-70s. Although I welcome the crisp, cooler Fall weather, I have two short sleeve Bristol knit tops cut out and ready to sew!

Bristol Top with short sleeve version cut out.

Short sleeve pattern hack

I've made the Bristol Top several times. It looks different with every fabric print and it's fun to mix and match fabrics for color blocking. The pattern pieces lend themselves to several fabric combinations—yoke, sleeves, cuffs, bottom flap. 

On a re-make in 2022, I did a pattern hack—to make a short sleeve version. This weekend, I wanted to fine tune the sleeve by shorting the length and making the opening slightly larger to allow for more movement.

Short sleeves cut out and ready to sew.

The original sewing plan

I got an itch to do some garment sewing last month. My original plan for a new Bristol was:

• to use up knit fabric remnants from my stash,
• add to my short sleeve knit top wardrobe (I have mostly long sleeve knit tops),
• fine tune the short sleeve pattern piece from the previous pattern hack.

The sleeve pattern was modified. I had all the pieces cut out for two short sleeve versions... ready to sew. 

         Now the darned cold front has moved through...

Another fabric combination for a new Bristol Top.

Throwing caution to the wind, I say, "Too bad on the weather forecast!" I'm sticking with the original plan and will take a jacket along. 

Plus, you can't always trust the weather forecast, now can you???

The One-Day Wiksten top

Last weekend was my birthday. I decided to forego paperwork and blogging to enjoy the pleasant September weather, go out to lunch at a favorite downtown trattoria, and do some “me-sewing.” The result was a new, one-day Wiksten top.

Wiksten top made with yarn dyed wovens [Diamond Textiles] and scrappy triangles.

Wearing my new Wiksten top.

Reusing a pattern

I’ve used the Wiksten pattern two or three times before, so the pattern pieces were already modified and fitted to me. For this new version, I made two other changes to my existing (modified) pattern pieces: lowering the front neckline slightly so it would more easily slip over my head, and adding an inch to the length.

Lengthened bodice pattern piece.

Fabrics and pattern hacks

I had some light colored yarn dyed wovens [by Diamond Textiles] that were already pre-washed and suited for a casual summer top. I mixed two dobby wovens that had inherent texture and I believe I used the “wrong” side of the check fabric because I thought it was more interesting. That is one of the beauties of yarn dyed wovens—you can choose the “right side” or the “other right side” of the fabric for your project.

A handful of  HSTs [half square triangles] were picked from my scrap box and strip pieced. This patchwork strip was inserted into the bodice front—to add a bit of color.

Patchwork insert on the bodice front.

Vents were put in at the side seams—an easy detail to add to this top. The neck facing was cut from a cotton print which made this a fun, scrappy make. The sleeves were hemmed by hand. The 3/4” bottom hem was sewn by machine. The hem stitches are camouflaged by the woven fabric.

Wiksten top flat view.

The Wiksten is a fast make. Even with my modifications, I finished this version in a day. The original pattern has options for a shift dress, a longer 3/4 sleeve, a gathered back version with a yoke, and pockets. It’s a good base pattern for hacks. It has a boxy, casual look but I read a hack where someone has added darts. 

Another Wiksten has been added to my wardrobe! One day under the needle… and the next day ready to wear.

On the deck outside my studio wearing my one-day Wiksten.

Slow Fashion Challenge 2023 starts in May

The Slow Fashion Challenge 2023 is set for May 1-15. It follows Fashion Revolution Week, April 22 - 29. Fashion Revolution Week 2023 marks 10 years since the Rana Plaza tragedy.

Daily prompts for Slow Fashion Challenge 2023.
Follow #slowfashionchallenge2023 on social media.

Are you a maker?

As a maker and a fabric rep, many concepts of the Slow Fashion movement are pertinent to me and what I do. I participated in the Slow Fashion Challenge last year and was exposed to many ideas and issues surrounding sustainability, caring for and mending our clothes, fast fashion, fashion brands, and a myriad of other topics. I was also extremely inspired by the Challenge participants, their posts and comments.

Hand lettering practice with text from Folk Fashion, by Amy Twigger Holroyd.

I'm reading and incorporating excerpts from the book, Folk Fashion, Understanding Homemade Clothes by Amy Twigger Holroyd, in one of my 100 Day Projects. I think Folk Fashion ties in perfectly with the Slow Fashion Challenge.

Folk Fashion, Understanding Homemade Clothes, by Amy Twigger Holroyd.

One excerpt from the book examines the definition of Creativity with respect to individual sewers/knitters/weavers/etc. using patterns when making garments. It seems there are different views on creativity when making clothing for an individual or for oneself vs creating clothes for mass production. Does this also apply to Slow Fashion vs. Fast Fashion?

Creativity is about breaking new ground, but internally—doing something you've not done before.

Join the Slow Fashion Challenge

Consider participating in the Slow Fashion Challenge... or at least follow along [#slowfashionchallenge2023 and @slowfashionchallenge]. The prompts are new this year and there will be many insights and viewpoints on the topics from people around the globe. I know I'm certain to learn something! And, the possibilities for learning is a good motivation that might develop new habits. 

Hand lettering: "Motivation is what gets you started. Habit is what keeps you going."

Another Bristol knit top: Make Nine project #4

Can you have too much of a good thing? In the case of the Bristol Top pattern paired with Art Gallery knits... I think not.

The  Bristol Top with cotton knits from Art Gallery Fabrics.
My Make Nine 2023 Wild Card prompt.

When you're faced with the comment, "wear something green in honor of St. Patrick's Day," you quickly rummage through your closet to see what you have. Hmmm... not much. However, the luck of the Irish must have been in the air as I found two AGF knits on an "end of the bolt" sale. The prints were from two different collections, but with Art Gallery's fabrics, you can mix across collections and still come up with a pot of gold at the end of any garment sewing rainbow.

Make Nine 2023: the Wild Card prompt

This Bristol is fulfilling one of my Wild Card prompts for Make Nine 2023. This is my second Bristol this year and the sixth make from this pattern. See all previous versions in this blog post. 

Bristol Top #6. Pattern from The Sewing Workshop.

My Make Nine 2023 tracker has been updated.

Wild Card prompt on the Make Nine 2023 tracker.

Four projects completed this year with five more to go.

Make Nine 2023 tracker, April 1, 2023

Remaking the Bristol Top—third Make Nine finish for 2023

I love a good re-make! One of my Make Nine 2023 prompts is "Make it Again" and I've used the Bristol Top pattern [from The Sewing Workshop] to make my fifth version of this knit top.

The Bristol Top: Make Nine 2023 Make it Again prompt.

For Bristol #5, I used two knits from Art Gallery Fabrics—a solid and a print. The Bristol has several options for mixing and matching fabric prints and/or solids—yoke, cuffs, bottom bands, collar band. This version has a contrasting yoke.

Imparting happiness with hand stitching

The Bristol pattern instructions call for top stitching at the seam where the yoke meets the bodice. Influenced by a recent presentation on Bojagi by Youngmin Lee, I decided to hand stitch this with a variegated cotton sashiko thread in a similar color palette. The hand stitching of bojagi is not only a design element, says Youngmin, but a way to impart wishes for happiness into the piece and to the recipient or wearer. With that in mind, my plan is to topstitch wishes of happiness into this new Bristol top. 

Bristol Top with a cotton sashiko thread for hand stitching.

The many benefits of Re-makes

The last time I made the Bristol, I made two at once! One has long sleeves (as the pattern indicates) and the other is a pattern hack for a short sleeve version.

Long sleeve and short sleeve versions of the Bristol Top.

Shortly after these two, I was thinking about zero waste so I made another long sleeve Bristol with leftover knit fabrics from other garments. 

Bristol Top made with leftover fabrics from other knit garments.

The first Bristol was a Make Nine project in 2020. 

My first Bristol Top, 2020.

Reasons I like re-makes?

• The more you make, the quicker and easier they go!
• The pattern is already fitted and modified to your body and style. It's one less BIG step in the garment-making process.
• You have your notes about the pattern to resolve the quirky/confusing parts, clarify any instructions, and the tips and shortcuts you've discovered along the way. (Yes, write these things right on the pattern pieces or the instruction sheets!)
• Different fabrics/colors/prints make every version different. (Besides, you don't wear all of them at the same time anyway, right?)
• Reusing a pattern is a wise investment in money, resources and time.
• If it feels good, do it again!

Completed Bristol top #5.

This is my third Make Nine finish for 2023. Full steam ahead!

May is the month for Slow Fashion challenges

May 1 is the first day of the Slow Fashion Challenge 2022. The Challenge is hosted by Louise Kane of ReAdorn London, Sharmon Lebby of Blessed Designs, and Amy Daileda of Vivid Element. This is the 6th year and they've modified the Challenge—with daily prompts—to span only 14 days. 

I'm going to give it a go. 

Slow Fashion Challenge 2022 daily prompts.

Slow fashion and sustainability

In prepping for the Show Fashion Challenge, a little research revealed this information from a Slow Fashion USA social media post: 

What is slow fashion? We ask ourselves this question constantly. In 1987 the UN defined sustainable as “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs."

It's a LOT to think about!

At a personal level

While I don't work directly in the [fast] fashion industry, I do have a role in the textile industry. On a personal level, I make some of my own garments (personal fashion). So, I have choices on what and where I source the fabrics and materials I use in my projects, and I have control over the care, use, and longevity of these items.

I hope to become more aware about the issues and goals of the Slow Fashion movement through this challenge. My initial pledge would be to slow down, make mindful purchasing decisions, buy better, and support small businesses. Through this challenge, I hope to learn more about better care methods, mending, repurposing/re-engineering garments (and fabric scraps) so I can use pieces longer before retiring them.

Me Made May

On another note, the Me-Made-May Challenge begins today as well. This Challenge is in its 13th year and it's set up with the purpose of getting better acquainted with your self-made—or "me-made"—wardrobe. If you are a maker, I think it plays perfectly with the Slow Fashion Challenge. 

Me Made May 2022

Enjoy these May activities whether you follow them or participate in them.

Celebrating quilt shop owners on National Quilting Day

Quiltmakers, historians, textile aficionados and anyone that loves quilts, fabric, thread, and stitching are celebrating National Quilting Day today! 

To celebrate, I'd like to turn the spotlight on all the creative and hard-working quilt shop and independent sewing center owners and their associates who inspire new and veteran quilters and sewists on a daily basis. They are the catalysts that bring the time-honored craft of quiltmaking into our homes and our lives.

"Creativity is Messy... and I'm very Creative!" Inspiration from Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Inspiration awaits at your local quilt shop [YLQS]

Here are just a few of the diverse projects I've encountered and admired at quilt shops and independent sewing centers through my travels as a fabric rep.

The Ghastlies fabrics from Alexander Henry Fabrics at 3 Hens and a Chick Quilt Shop.

Bookish from Art Gallery Fabrics at The Quilting Squares of Franklin.

Mixing M&S Textiles Australia fabrics with various blenders at Patches and Stitches.

Fabric panels, kits and programs

Quick and easy quilts can be made with fabric panels.

Frond Design Studios panel from Northcott at Tennessee Quilts.

Make your own wall art with a panel from P&B Textiles at Stitcher's Playhouse.

Another option for fast-and-easy projects are the Kwik Kits from RB Studios. All the pieces are cut to size and ready to start sewing. Backing and binding is included. Open. Sew. Repeat.

Kwik Kits by RB Studios at Quilted Creations.

Ready-to-sew fabric pieces in Kwik Kits by RB Studios at Quilted Creations.

Quilt shops offer on-going clubs and programs like a Block of the Month [BOM] to help quilters build skills and tackle a big project by breaking it down into smaller, manageable activities.

Quilt shops across the country are hosting the Illusions BOM with Banyan Batiks. 

Blocks from the Illusions BOM at Beyond Stitches.

A Sampler BOM with 1930s reproductions from Dutch Heritage at The Cherry Pit.

Cotton prints, solids, flannels and more

Quilts shops and independent sewing centers offer higher quality fabrics for myriad quilting and sewing projects. Shop owners and their staff are knowledgeable and experienced—ask them about classes, patterns and instructions to help you with your next quilting or sewing endeavor.

Yarn-dyed wovens from Diamond Textiles at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Machine quilting services are offered at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Wovens and prints play together at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Quilting cottons are perfect for children's garments.

Festive Fauna from FIGO Fabrics at The Sewing House.

Table topper with Farm Days by Dashwood Studio at Chattanooga Sewing Machines.

Sweet Baby from RB Studios at Stitcher's Playhouse.

Some quilt shops carry other substrates such as flannel, knits and rayons.

New flannels from Art Gallery Fabrics at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Quilt shops embrace vibrant colors, pattern and designs as well as the cultural aspects of the fabric designers. M&S Textiles features fabric designs from Australian Aboriginal artists. 

M&S Textiles Australia at Atlanta Sewing Center.

M&S Textiles Australia at Mountain Quilts.

Zipper pouch using M&S Textiles Australia at Barb's Sewing Center.

M&S Textiles Australia at Little Women Quilt Shop.

Need ideas for stash busting and using up your scraps? Visit your local quilt shop [YLQS].

Triangle quilt using an Art Gallery Pure Solid at Thomas Sewing Center.

Free-motion machine quilting at Thomas Sewing Center.

Does the super hero in your life need a quilt? 

Super Dinos from Paintbrush Studio Fabrics at The Sewing House.

Your local quilt shop creates inspiration though all the seasons.

Peppermint fabrics from FIGO at The Quilting Squares of Franklin.

Halloween fabrics by Lewis & Irene at The Quilting Squares of Franklin.

Clothing and garment sewing

And don't forget about the garment sewing going on at YLQS... there is that, too!

The "quilt coat" with Waved from Paintbrush Studio and Grid from Art Gallery Fabrics
at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Ask for Art Gallery flannels at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

Using a panel from P&B Textiles for reverse appliqué at Stitcher's Playhouse.

Pre-quilted fabric from Paintbrush Studio Fabrics for a child's jacket at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.

And there are plenty of new fabric collections arriving at YLQS weekly. New projects (on the bolts) are waiting for you.

Prehistoric World from Northcott is coming to Shiloh Pieced and Present and Sew Squared.

Little Darlings Safari from P&B Textiles at Beyond Stitches.

Aviary by Dashwood Studio at Stitchers Garden.

Celebrate National Quilting Day every day!

What are you waiting for? Get in on the celebration of creativity through quilting, fabric and thread. Stop in at YLQS today... visit their website... interact on their social media sites... take a class (virtual or in-store)... sign up for their newsletters to get the latest info! 

Inspiration is for the taking...

All You Need is Love... and a quilt. Art Gallery Fabrics at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe.