Sunday, February 23, 2020

Making quilts with knit fabrics

Can you make a quilt with knit fabrics? With thoughtful consideration for tools and process, it is definitely achievable! Here's what I learned from this experiment.
Choose a stretch, knit, jersey or ball point needle for sewing with knit fabrics.

What to do with knit fabric scraps?
I love scrappy quilts! I also embrace the challenge of working with scraps—for bags, charity quilts, pouches, wall pieces and bed quilts. I had several small samples of Art Gallery knit fabrics [95% cotton, 5% spandex] that were languishing in the scrap box. The pieces were not large enough for a garment (without extensive patchwork, color blocking and searching for an appropriate coordinating fabric), so another solution was needed.

Knit patchwork quilt top.

While visiting with Jan and Andrea, shopkeepers at Bumbletees Fabrics, the possibility of successfully making a quilt with knit fabrics was planted in my mind. They showed me a quilted throw made with a beautiful Art Gallery floral knit [Floral Glow Twilit from the Autumn Vibes collection]. The throw was free-motion quilted on a long arm using Cuddle fabric for the backing. This throw has a major snuggle factor!

Quilted knit throw

So, with knit scraps in hand, I embarked on another kitty quilt to experiment with quiltmaking with knits. (The kitties love it when I do fabric experiments.)

Choosing tools and materials appropriate for sewing and quilting knits
Needles: I've learned from past projects that using a sewing machine needle made for knit fabrics—ballpoint, stretch, jersey, knit—is imperative. 
Thread: I used an Aurifil 50 wt cotton for piecing and WonderFil Tutti [50 wt. variegated cotton] on the top and DecoBob [80 wt. poly] in the bobbin for quilting.
Stitch selection: I used the lightning bolt stitch #17 on my Janome for piecing. This stitch accommodates the stretch of the knit fabrics without popping the stitching when the fabric stretches.

WonderFil DecoBob 80wt for bobbin, Tutti variegated on top.
Use a needle designed for knit fabrics.

Cotton Batting: I was able to zigzag stitch batting scraps together to get the size needed.

Piecing batting scraps with a 3-step zigzag stitch.

Backing fabric: Cotton flannel was used for the backing.
Basting: I pin basted the quilt sandwich. Because the knit fabric wanted to roll on the cut edges, I found that pin basting very close to the edges was very helpful. I think spray basting would be a good basting solution as well.

Pin basting very close to the edge to minimize fabric curling.

Free motion quilting on knits 
The next conundrum would be the free-motion quilting on stretchy knit fabrics. Even with the presser foot raised to the highest position, the open-toe free-motion foot dragged across the knit and caused pleats.

Pleats and tucks caused by the presser foot during quilting.

The next foot I tried was the free-motion cupped zigzag cording foot (below center). This foot dragged across the knit top more than the open-toe foot.

Left: open-toe free-motion foot. Center: zigzag free-motion foot. Right: convertible free-motion foot.

The successful foot for free-motion quilting across the knit fabrics was the convertible free-motion foot (above right). It does not hop when quilting. The presser foot height was set so the foot just hovered over the quilt top without dragging over the fabric. (Be sure the presser foot is down/engaged when adjusting the height so you can see how close the foot is to the fabric.)

Close-up of quilting and scrappy binding.

Binding: regular (woven) quilting cotton was used for the scrappy binding which was attached by machine with a blind hem stitch.

Shrinkage: After washing, only the cotton binding showed signs of shrinkage. The quilted knit fabrics looked the the same before and after washing the finished quilt.

Finished quilt: 28" x 24"

The flannel backing is an all-over cat print.

Flannel cat print backing.

Kitty Approved!

Stan Leigh approves!

This was a good experiment. Now I have notes and experience for future quilted projects that include knit fabrics.

Sunday, February 9, 2020

A Ghastlie heart for Valentine's Day

I was at The Quilting Squares of Franklin quilt shop on Friday. The Ghastlies were there!! Valentine's Day is this coming Friday. And one of my Make Nine projects is pillowcases. Kismet!

"Ghastlie Love." Alexander Henry Fabrics.

Ghastlie Heart Valentine pillow cases
The fabrics I chose for my Valentine pillow cases are Alexander Henry's "A Ghastlie Heart" (of course!) and "A Ghastlie Screen," with a bold, graphic, Art Deco flavor. Both of these fabrics come in other colorways and there are several more prints/patterns in the collection. Call The Quilting Squares of Franklin or visit you local quilt shop and snatch some Ghastlies for Valentine's Day.

The makings of pillowcases: A Ghastlie Heart and A Ghastlie Screen from Alexander Henry Fabrics.

I use the burrito construction method with French seams to make my pillowcases and omit the accent band at the cuff. I'm checking off another Make Nine finish for 2020.

A Ghastlie Heart pillow cases.

Wishing everyone a Delicious Valentine's Day (and night) with Ghastlie pillow cases.

A Ghastlie Love fabric from Alexander Henry Fabrics.

💗 💗 💗

Sunday, February 2, 2020

Odette top in Lugu and Plaid knits: a Make Nine finish

Hello to February and my first Make Nine 2020 finish! This is the Odette Top made with Lugu and Mad Plaid cotton knits from Art Gallery Fabrics.
Lugu & Plaid Odette knit top. Odette and Ivy pattern from The Sewing Workshop.
Cotton knit prints [Lugu and Mad Plaid collections] from Art Gallery Fabrics.

Fabric purchasing factors
These two cotton knits were purchased together [Barb's Sewing Center] with the thought of using them in a color block garment. I liked both of these collections from Art Gallery independently when each was released. But it wasn't until I saw the bolts side by side at the fabric shop that I realized I liked them together as well.

There is an interesting contrast between the geometric plaid print [Electric Watermelon Plaid (gotta love the name)] and the hand drawn, whimsical owls by fabric designer, Jessica Swift. The color palettes harmonize—maybe with a syncopated beat. The Odette & Ivy Top pattern is a go-to pattern of mine, and the winter weather prompted a top with long sleeves.

Electric Watermelon Plaid and Sova Sunshine (owls) knits [Art Gallery Fabrics].
Pattern: Odette & Ivy Tops [from The Sewing Workshop].

My Make Nine journal indicates I started this project on January 19, 2020 with the pattern layout and fabric cutting. The top was completed on February 1. 

Odette Top: front, back.

Working with a Plaid
I was careful to position and match the plaids for both sleeves. The pattern piece layout wasn't as "fabric efficient" as it would be with a solid or all-over print, but it was well worth the extra time and slightly more fabric waste. [I'm sure I'll use the scraps in future projects.]

Matching the plaids.

I waited choosing the fabric for the neckband until the top was fully assembled. I decided on the plaid but was concerned about the alignment of the stripes on the narrow neckband. 

After attaching the neckband, I realized the turquoise stripe in the plaid abutted the Lugu fabric. It was not what I originally intended but after sewing, it looked like a faux piping detail. Happy accident!

A turquoise stripe at the neckband edge looks like a faux piping.

This top coordinates nicely with my Valencia pants in a charcoal Art Gallery denim fabric (a 2019 Make Nine project). Love it when things come together!

Lugu top coordinates with charcoal Valencia pants.

And, the asymmetrical peplum is in just the right position to access the patch pocket in my pants.

Wearing my new Lugu Odette top with the Valencia pants.

It's Groundhog Day
I understand groundhog Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow today, prognosticating an early Spring this year. Winter or Spring, I predict I'll keep on keepin' on with my Make Nine projects. And if, as in the Groundhog Day movie, the day gets into a continuous loop, at least it will be a loop of finishes!

I'd be OK with that, too. How 'bout you?


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