Sunday, June 28, 2020

The fruits of small compositions

I connected with two quilting friends this week—one via social media and another in person. 

Block 37: Monette. Center fabric from M&S Textiles Australia.
Coordinates from Forest Fancies by Lisa Kirkbride for P&B Textiles and Meridian [P&B Textiles].

Tari, my quilting friend in Florida, commented on all the fun fabrics in my EPP [English paper pieced] Glorious Hexagon blocks I've been working on since the lockdown. Using scraps and discontinued fabric samples for the blocks, I'm reacquainting myself with fabric collections and taking solace in the hand piecing process.

Variation of Block 3: Sarah.
Fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics, Lewis & Irene.

Some blocks are from The New Hexagon book. Others are cobbled together from various pieces and unused paper templates.

Block 49: Irene
Fabrics from P&B Textiles.

I don't have a big picture plan, layout, or color scheme for this EPP project. I'm just creating one small composition at a time: choosing fabrics from the scrap basket and coordinating colors and prints as I go. 

There is feeling of success and accomplishment with each completed hexagon.

Improv Star in batiks

I ran into the other quilting friend, Jamie, in a quilt shop. She follows my blog and we're friends on social media. She told me that my blog posts have inspired her to start sewing garments. 

Block 5: Caroline
Fabrics from Lewis & Irene, P&B Textiles.

Jamie was wearing a lovely denim-blue dress she had made using a border print fabric. She did a great job and the dress looked so cute on her. Her pattern hack was the addition of pockets in the side seams.

Block 41: Betty
Fabrics from Lewis & Irene, Art Gallery Fabrics, P&B Textiles.

I commended her for making an outfit to suit her creativity, needs and lifestyle. It's a few of the many perks to sewing one's own wardrobe!

Small compositions.

We chatted briefly about our current fabric passions—mine was rayon and hers was linen. As we parted, we encouraged each other to keep sewing and looked forward to each other's next makes. 

A gallery of small compositions. 

Enjoy the successes of small compositions

The world today is overshadowed with severe health threats, political chaos, physical and emotional trauma... it's stressful, draining and so tiresome. It's a relief that our crafts and hobbies can deviate and distract from the news of the day—providing stability and calmness, if only for a short time. With each project or composition, we get to learn or see something new. We can make choices to modify a pattern—add pockets, change the sleeve length, omit a collar, rearrange the pieces in the patchwork. 

I am enjoying the creation and success of my small hexie compositions. It's refreshing to have choices, make decisions, express a personal vision, and have control over the process and outcome. 

Hexagons.


Saturday, June 20, 2020

Not shopping at big stores? Make your summer wardrobe yourself!

The grass didn't have much chance to grow between my first rayon MixIt Top and my second. This is MixIt Two in another Art Gallery rayon fabric... this one from the Abloom Fusion collection.

MixIt Top from The Sewing Workshop.
Rayon fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics.

I love the summery colors of this floral rayon print. For this second make from my MixIt pattern, I added another inch of length to the sleeves. The other pattern modifications are in this post.

MixIt Top in Budquette Abloom print from Art Gallery Fabrics.

I was talking to Kim, the owner of Chattanooga Quilts this week. She was telling me that she and her daughter have decided to sew some summer dresses for themselves... since it's not quite comfortable to shop at the malls just yet.

To be honest, I can't remember the last time I shopped for clothes—either at a mall store or online. I would rather support and buy fabric at the small business quilt shops and fabric shops that I do business with... and make my own wardrobe. #lovedclotheslast #memadewardrobe

Dressed for summer in a rayon MixIt Top and the Valencia pants with pockets.

I'm wearing this second MixIt with one of my Valencia pants (pattern also from The Sewing Workshop). The fabric is a yarn-dyed woven from Diamond Textiles.

So, Yes! You CAN get fabrics for garment sewing at quilt shops—rayon, knits, linen, and top and bottom weight wovens! Art Gallery Fabrics and other fabric companies that cater to the quilting industry not only produce beautiful quilting cottons, but also fabrics suitable for garments and wearables.

If your local quilt shop hasn't stepped into carrying these substrates yet, tell them you are interested! As quilt shops and independent sewing centers begin to reopen from the lockdown, they want to know what consumers are interested in learning/making/buying so they can restock their shelves accordingly.

Reach for a rayon on your next visit... and make something summery to wear!


Sunday, June 14, 2020

Mixing Australian aboriginal textiles and batiks: a bippity boppity boo quilt

I got a wonderful surprise this week! This quilt top was loaned out to 3 Hens and a Chick quilt shop to use in a shop display illustrating how different kinds of fabrics—Australian aboriginal prints and batiks—can be successfully mixed in a project. The top was returned to me this week... quilted and bound! It felt like my fabric fairy godmother waved her magic wand and *poof*... bippity, boppity, boo!

Charm Squares on Point. 42.5" x 48"
Featuring fabrics from M&S Textiles Australia and Majestic Batiks.

This quilt uses 5" charm squares [purple colorway] from M&S Textiles Australia. To complement the Australian aboriginal designs, two batiks [from Majestic Batiks] in a medium/dark value were used for the alternate squares, setting triangles and outside border. [Note: 3 Hens and a Chick quilt shop carries fabrics from M&S Textiles and Majestic Batiks.]

Charm Squares on Point. 42.5" x 48" (finished size).

The designs and color palette of the batiks chosen were more subtle so they would not compete with the Australian prints which were the focus of this quilt. The narrow inside border is from 2.5" strips from a pre-cut strip roll [M&S Textiles Australia]. The lighter value of this fabric framed the charm squares and provided contrast with the background and border fabrics.

Mixing Australian aboriginal fabric prints with batiks.

The lovely long arm quilting was done by Cheryl Johnson, one of the chicks at 3 Hens and a Chick quilt shop. The edge-to-edge pattern of swirls, spikes and waves complements the more organic fabric designs without distracting from them.

Long arm quilting on the outside border.

The backing fabric is Spirit Dreaming, also from M&S Textiles. This diagonal design affords movement on the back... and the use of this fabric print for the binding, created a subtle striping effect—without having to cut the fabric on the bias!

Backing and binding fabric: Spirit Dreaming from M&S Textiles.

A noteworthy point of observation: the binding was sewn down by hand! (Oh, my fabric fairy godmother is sooo generous!)

5" charm squares of batiks and 

National Sewing Machine Day
As we celebrate National Sewing Machine day (June 13)—yesterday, today and through the year—I hope you seek out and contact your local quilt shops and independent sewing machine centers for supplies and equipment. These businesses carry the "first quality" fabrics you will want to work with and the machines and proper tools to get the job done—professionally and correctly.

As the world came to find out over the past few months, Sewing is a Super Power as sewists and quilters poured their experience, expertise and talent into making masks, scrub hats and hospital gowns. Quilt shops and independent sewing centers not only supported the makers and recipients of these endeavors, they continue to provide:
  • inspiration and instruction
  • "first quality" fabrics 
  • unique kits and projects
  • machine quilting services or resources
  • machine repair and maintenance services
  • notions and tools
  • patterns and books
  • support and camaraderie
  • These things you don't get in the big box stores.
... and now and again they can pull out a secret magic wand and perform a little Bippity, Boppity, Boo magic! I hope you cross paths with your fabric fairy godmother (or godfather) soon.

Thanks again to Cheryl, Carol, Teresa and Sherrie at 3 Hens and a Chick quilt shop for a wonderful surprise. 


Sunday, June 7, 2020

The MixIt Top with Kushukuru rayon, a Make Nine finish

Had I known how soft, flowy and wonderfully slinky wearing a rayon top would feel, I might have finished this Make Nine project last year! Here is my new MixIt Top, another Make Nine 2020 finish.
Rayon MixIt Top—a Make Nine 2020 finish.

From M9 2019 to M9 2020
The original intention was to make "something" using rayon fabric through participation in the Make Nine 2019 challenge. I made Rayon a Wild Card project. But it didn't happen.

Still wanting to try this fabric and hone my sewing skills, I moved this project from the 2019 list to my Make Nine 2020 list.

Cutting out pieces of the MixIt Top [pattern by The Sewing Workshop].
Rayon fabric from Kushukuru by Jessica Swift for Art Gallery Fabrics.

During the last two months of shelter-in-place, I have been able to complete quite a few of my Make Nine 2020 items. Taking inspiration from the participants and garments of Me Made May, the time had come to tackle a new substrate—rayon.

My MixIt Top: process and modifications
In October 2019, I chose the MixIt Top [pattern by The Sewing Workshop] for its simplicity and loose, casual fit to fulfil my Rayon Wild Card project. If I was going to try sewing with a more drapey fabric, a simple pattern with minimal garment pieces seemed a good idea. The test muslin was made last year as well. My pattern modifications were:
  • narrowed the shoulder
  • lowered the bust dart
  • added an inch to the length
  • lengthened the sleeve (personal preference)
  • I also opted to omit the top button and button loop (for a more breezy, casual look).

Adjusting the bust dart and adding length to the pattern.

The fabric is a rayon from Art Gallery Fabrics. It's called "Everlasting Imprint" from the Kushukuru collection by Jessica Swift. (This print also comes in a cotton woven.) Kushukuru means "gratitude" in Swahili.

Lengthening the cap sleeve.

Would you believe the pattern pieces for this top were also cut out last October?? It was just waiting to be sewn! On the last day of Me Made May, I jumped in.

It took one day. 
May 31. 
The last day of Me Made May 2020.

MixIt Top made during Me Made May 2020.

I still have to topstitch the side vents, but I couldn't wait to try it on! I wore it all day... unfinished side hems and all. Heavenly.

Why did I wait so long? I guess life just happened... as it often does... and takes us to alternate routes. However, a second rayon MixIt is already on the cutting mat.

Back and side vent view.

In this unsettling time... amidst the turmoil, protests, political mayhem, unkindness and injustices... I hope you can find a little comfort in the small, everyday things—like using your hands to make something... cooking, baking, gardening, sewing... or feeling the softness of a lovely textile against your skin.


Sunday, May 31, 2020

My first Komebukuro, a "Birdie" Japanese rice bag

Komebukuro: a traditional Japanese cotton drawstring bag. A plethora of examples of this humble yet classic bag dwell on Pinterest, Instagram, Etsy and blogs. Patterns and tutorials can be found all over the web. I like the idea of this traditional, simple, and useful accessory and have wanted to make one for quite a while. This is my first go at it.

Kumebukuro with Birdie fabric by Mia Charro for Blend Fabrics.

The traditional Japanese rice bag—kome (rice) and bukuro (bag)—was used to store and carry rice for offerings at Japanese temples. Since I'm back to working on my Glorious Hexagon EPP [English paper piecing] project, I'll likely use my new Japanese rice bag to hold these supplies and blocks.

Materials
This was the plan:
  • I wanted to feature these adorable birds from the Birdie collection by Mia Charro for Blend Fabrics on the bag. (Fabric purchased at Chattanooga Sewing Machines)
  • I also uncovered a pile of half-square triangles [HSTs] in my stash. The colors worked and it was a repurposing effort. 
Birdie from Blend Fabrics and miscellaneous HSTs.


Coordinating fabrics: Forme from Lewis and Irene
and Basically Hugs from P&B Textiles.

  • To give stability to the bag, I decided to try a new-to-me product, cork fabric. I received some cut-offs from Midwest Textiles to experiment with.

Cork fabric from Midwest Textiles.

Assembly
The komebukuro is basically a cube. The sides and bottom are all squares so with this formula, the bag can be made any size. My square was 11".  The birds and HSTs were framed to build out the square to 11 inches.

Construction of the sides of the bag.

At the base of each side panel was a piece of cork fabric. The bottom of the bag was also cork.

Press the seams of the cork with a seam roller or wooden iron.

Working with Cork fabric
The cork fabric cuts and sews just like fabric, but don't use a hot iron on this fabric or it will buckle. I used a seam roller to "press" any seams. A wooden iron or finger pressing would also work. I used the regular 80/20 sewing machine needle, 50 wt. cotton sewing thread and my quarter-inch presser foot to sew the cork. It was like working with a heavy weight fabric, but with no stretch.

If I had my druthers
Now that my komebukuro is completed, here are my observations and a few things I will consider for next time:

  • The bag does not stand up by itself. (It's kinda slouchy.)
  • Although the cork fabric provides a flat base and stability at the bag's bottom, the sides need hand stitching, quilting or interfacing for more support for this size bag.

This is a slouchy bag.

  • The size and number of tabs for the drawstring allow varying degrees of closure. I would try tabs of a narrower width so the bag closes more.
  • Drawstring tabs from cork fabric might be an option. They would be fast and easy—no need to topstitch, no raw edges to fold under, etc.

Completed Birdie komebukuro with a cork fabric bottom.

  • The design of these bags is simple and elegant, offering a wonderful canvas for patchwork, hand stitching (kantha, embroidery, sashiko), free-motion and machine quilting. Possibilities for surface design abound.
  • Pockets could easily be added to the inside—or outside—of this bag!
  • I'd like to try different materials for the drawstring... and include decorative finials.
  • It would also be fun to make an accompanying little needle book with a cork fabric cover. (Do I hear you saying, "Good idea for a gift"?)

Close-up of the cardinal Birdie block and HST patchwork.

I love the Birdie squares on my komebukuro! They are cheerful, bright and make me smile. This bag was a good project to experiment and learn about working with cork fabric, and the opportunity to repurpose a batch of leftover HSTs is very satisfying.

Besides... one can't have too many project bags, right?


Sunday, May 24, 2020

Slow stitching EPP hexies, progress on a UFO

I'm not sure why, but over the last few weeks of this quarantine period, I've turned to slow stitching processes: English paper piecing and hand embroidery. Maybe hand processes are more soothing, maybe I was inspired by re-discovered UFOs [unfinished objects], maybe a shake-up was needed in my making... maybe a little of all these.

75 English paper pieced hexies from Glorious Hexagons project.
From the book: The New Hexagon by Katja Marek.

I do know that two events reignited my interest in English paper piecing [EPP]. In mid-April, I uncovered a big pile of 1-1/4" EPP hexagons. Not sure if there was an original plan for these...

A stack of 1-1/4" English paper pieced hexagons [hexies].

A few days later, I was tagged by Katja Marek on one of her Instagram posts. Katja so generously named Block #16 the Veronica block, after me. What an honor! The Veronica block is in her latest book, The New Hexagon 2. Get yourself a copy! (This time there are patterns for 12" as well as 6" hexie blocks.)

Block # 16, Veronica, from The New Hexagon 2 book.

You can bet her book is already part of my personal fiber arts library!

My copy of The New Hexagon 2 book.

Realizing this was a message from the fabric goddesses, I went in search of my previously pieced 6" hexies from my Glorious Hexagon project that coincided with Katja's first book, The New Hexagon.

My Glorious Hexagons project was started in January of 2016. Through a search of my 2016 blog posts, it appears I stuck with it for about 8 months. With renewed excitement, these are ten 2020 additions to the collection.

Six completed hexies made with stash fabrics.
Three 6" hexagons made with Art Gallery Fabrics.
Dawn block #23. Made with Art Gallery Fabrics.

As of today, the pile is up to 75 finished hexagons...

75 hexagons.

and counting...

EPP hexies with tails!


Sunday, May 17, 2020

Make Nine 2020 finish: Slip stitch knit dish towel

On-line videos and real-time product previews have proliferated during the coronavirus quarantine. A couple weeks ago, I stumbled across Heather's "Friday at Five" Facebook Live broadcast with the latest happenings from Universal Yarn—new yarns, great project ideas and featured patterns (some are free downloads). This is where I learned about the Mosaic Dish Towels pattern.

"Mosaic Dish Towel" pattern from Universal Yarn. A Make Nine 2020 finish.

I have a "yarn project" on my Make Nine 2020 list. The plan was for something that was easy, relaxing, small and achievable. When Heather mentioned this project, I knew it fit the requirements... and was functional as well!

The Mosaic Dish Towel took me a weekend to complete. The cast on was Friday evening and I was weaving in the ends on Sunday. The 4-row slip stitch mosaic pattern provided enough intrigue to keep my mind alert and the rest was the mindful slow stitching of a repetitive garter stitch (which I knitted during in-home movie night with my husband). I opted to omit the i-cord loop... and I may even have enough yarn for a matching dish cloth.

Mosaic Dish Towel, 11" x 17",  cotton yarn.

The mix of relaxing repetition and focussed concentration required for a hand knit project may be just what you need these days. Check out Heather's Universal Yarn Facebook videos for knitting and crochet inspiration and project suggestions. She's down-to-earth, her presentation is brief and well paced, she's enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the products, and sometimes she's unexpectedly joined by one of her cats.

It's a delightful way to welcome the weekend!

Sunday, May 10, 2020

My Citizen Mask sewing process

Early in April, after reviewing myriad opinions, websites, blogs, and videos, I chose a mask pattern and did my stint in making masks. The masks were for members of my household and our neighbors. This blog seemed to be a good place to document the process of this (yet another coronavirus quantantine) sewing activity for current and future reference.
Citizen Masks with cotton batiks and knit drawstring ties.

Pattern
I chose the fitted, contoured Citizen Mask 1 Pattern from masksofloveunc.weebly.com. This mask design has a pocket for a filter.

Fabrics
The fabrics I used are cotton batiks from Majestic Batiks. These batiks have a thread count of 205. This is higher than the majority of printed quilters cottons that have a 120 thread count. [Except for the cotton prints from Art Gallery Fabrics which also has a thread count of 205 and is OEKO-TEX certified].

The drawstring ties are knit fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics.
Citizen Mask 1 pattern and batiks from Majestic Batiks (205 thread count).
Cutting
Cut 2 outside pieces and 2 lining pieces. Use two different prints for the outside and lining of the mask so you can easily tell them apart.
Press 1/4" hem on the outside pieces and lining pieces.
These are the batiks used for the outside of the mask.

Sewing

Sew down the hem allowance close to the raw edge on both outsides and both lining pieces.
With right sides together, stitch the curved seam of the outside mask. Repeat for lining.
Clip the curves or pink the seam allowance at the curve.

NOTE: For reference in the photos below, there is white thread in the bobbin and a matching thread on top.
Batik is the outside and the black/white print is the lining fabric.

With right sides together, align the mask outside and lining, matching the top and bottom center seams.

Nest the seam allowances to make a nice join.

With the lining side facing you, start at the edge of the lining and sew mask outside and lining together along the stitching lines at the top and bottom. Back stitch (for about an inch) at the beginning and end of the stitching lines.*

Trim the seam allowances where the seam lines meet at the bridge of the nose.

Turn mask right side out. Press.
The outside of the mask extends beyond the lining fabric as shown below.

Fold the extension so the hemmed edge meets the lining (a line indicated on the pattern piece). This makes the casing for the adjustable tie.
NOTE: the white bobbin stitching is from the previous step where the hem was sewn down.
With the lining side of the mask facing you, stitch the casing close to the hemmed edge.

With the lining side of the mask up (facing you), sew down the left and right casings, stitching close to the edge. Back stitch at the beginning and end of the stitching line.

Topstitching
In a continuous stitching line, topstitch around the mask about 1/8" from the edge. Starting on the bottom edge, topstitch to the first casing, up the casing (slightly to the inside of the previous casing stitching line), across the top, down the other casing, across the bottom. DO NOT stitch the casings closed!
NOTE: the white stitching is the sewing line (bobbin thread) for the casing.
The topstitching is about 1/16" to the right as shown above.

Nose Bridge Wire
To allow for a better fit, I inserted a wire at the bridge of the nose.
Using 18 or 20 gauge wire, cut a piece approximately 6" long. Fold in half and twist. Use needle-nose pliers to curl in the cut ends so they will not puncture the fabric or have a sharp end.

Lay the twisted wire along the center top of the mask (where the bridge of the nose will be) and mark the placement.

Nose Wire Pocket
Reduce the stitch length on your sewing machine (so the wire cannot poke through).
Sew a pocket for the nose wire approximately 1/2" wide and the length of the measurements from the step above. Leave and opening at one end to insert the wire.
Sew the pocket for the nose wire, leaving one end open for wire insertion.
Insert wire and sew closed.

From the inside of the mask, going between the lining and the outside fabric, insert the twisted nose wire into the pocket. Sew the nose wire pocket closed, being careful not to sew over the wire and break a needle.

Drawstring Ties
I used knit fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics for the mask's drawstring ties.
Cut a piece of knit approximately 1" to 1-1/4" wide by 24" to 30" long.

Pull the ends to stretch and the fabric will curl on itself. There is no need to finish the edges as the knit fabric will not ravel. [Big time saver!]

Using a bodkin or safety pin (whatever will fit through the casing), feed the knit drawstring tie through the casings so the mask will tie at the top of the head. The ends of the drawstring can be knotted, if desired.
Outside of mask. Note it ties at the top of the head.

Inside of finished mask.
Inside/lining side of the mask.

Notes and Tips
  • Use two different fabrics for the inside and outside of the mask. This will make the inside and outside easily identified and the wearer will not accidentally put the "outside" next to her/his nose/mouth.
  • Backstitching at the beginning and ends of stitching lines with strengthen and secure the seams—especially at the high stress points such as the casings.
  • * When sewing the outside mask to the lining, do a deep backstitch (3/4" to 1") so the thread tails will be well into the middle of the mask when it is turned right side out. (This makes the process faster as the thread tails don't need to be cut close.)
  • The knit drawstring ties are soft and stretchy for comfort. The drawstring can be adjusted through the casings for a better, snugger fit and to accommodate various head sizes. 
  • The nose bridge wire helps prevent glasses from fogging (for those that wear eyeglasses).
  • A filter can be inserted from the inside of the mask to sandwich between the outside and lining fabrics.
  • Avoid making extra holes in the mask-making fabrics (decorative stitching, embroidery, excessive pinning, etc.). Holes in the fabric defeat the purpose of protection.
  • I found the videos from The Fabric Patch give a good explanation and illustration about fabrics and supplies for making masks, how small virus particles can be, and lessons learned from making thousands of masks.

Stay healthy. Wash your hands. Wear a mask. Maintain social distance. Do your part!


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