Make it Again… and again… and…

One of my Make Nine prompts is “Make it Again.” It’s a prompt for a project where I can use an existing pattern or a technique with which I’m familiar, to expedite “getting to the good part.” Here are another pair of Valencia one-seam pants and another long-sleeve (I’ve also made a few short sleeve versions) Bristol knit top.

The Bristol top and Valencia pants patterns from The Sewing Workshop.

Garment details

The knit is from Art Gallery Fabrics and the pant fabric is a woven from Diamond Textiles.

Another “Make it Again” outfit.

I always add pockets to my Valencia pants. Where else do you put your kleenex and your car keys?

Patch pockets added to my Valencia pants.

On the Bristol, I added top stitching by hand with a variegated 8 wt. perle cotton thread at the yoke. The sleeve cuffs are also a different knit print.

Hand stitching at the yoke. Contrasting fabric for the cuffs.

Two makes in two days. It’s “Make it Again” in all its glory. Can’t beat that efficiency!

“Make it Again” Bristol knit top and Valencia pants with pockets.

Make Nine finish #6: a Berwick St. shirt and Valencia pants

I have a handful of favorite patterns that I reuse often. Once the pattern pieces are modified and re-drafted to fit me, it’s fun to focus on variations to these garments—shortening/lengthening sleeves, incorporating color blocking, using different fabrics, adding hand stitching, and the like. These are the times when I feel creative… and why I include a “Make it Again” prompt in my Make Nine challenges.

My Berwick St. shirt in linen/cotton with the pattern.

The Berwick St. Tunic re-make

Back in 2021, I used an eclectic Australian aboriginal print [by M&S Textiles Australia] to make my first Berwick Street Tunic [by The Sewing Workshop]. I wear it often in cooler weather but always thought it would be interesting to forego the gathered lower front panel and make a shorter, shirt variation and extend the button band down the full length of the front. So, here is my Berwick Street shirt, and the sixth finish for Make Nine 2024, fulfilling the Make it Again prompt.

My new linen/cotton Berwick Street shirt.

This Berwick St. shirt is made from a linen/cotton blend from Art Gallery Fabrics’ Inkperfect collection. When I was at Gina’s Bernina, a quilt shop in Knoxville, TN, I couldn’t decide which print to buy, so I purchased yardage of both. I drafted new pattern pieces for the front (to eliminate the gathered lower front panel) and shortened the bodice back about 3.5”

Redrafted front pattern piece.

I curved the bottom hem on the front pieces and matched them to the back pattern piece at the side seams.

Berwick Street shirt: color blocked front and curved bottom hem.

One of my favorite parts of the garment sewing process is choosing buttons from my extensive button collection! (Who doesn’t like mixing and matching and playing with all the buttons in the button box??) Buttons were needed for the sleeve cuffs and the front—and they don’t have to match or be the same!

Button options for the sleeve cuffs.

Small white shirt buttons were chosen for the concealed button placket.

This AGF linen blend has a beautiful drape and was easy to hand sew for the finishing steps—bottom hem, collar facing, cuffs.

To accompany my new shirt, I did a re-make of another favorite pattern—the one-seam Valencia Pants [The Sewing Workshop]—with a nubby, dobby yarn-dyed fabric [by Diamond Textiles] that I purchased on a recent visit to Fletcher’s Homemade in Elizabethton, TN.

Valencia Pants with added patch pockets. Pockets are lined with a voile print.

The pockets are a pattern hack that was added since my first version of these pants. I like to line the pockets with a “surprise” fun fabric like this one—a voile from the Emmy Grace collection [Art Gallery Fabrics]. Using a voile, rayon, or lighter weight cotton fabric for pocket linings reduces the bulk of the pocket and makes it easy to turn. (It’s also a great way to use up smaller pieces of fabric and offcuts from other projects!)

I wore both of these makes at H+H Americas, an industry trade show at the beginning of May. Nothing like a deadline to get something made… and finished!

Make Nine 2024 tracker. May 2024.

Make Nine 2024 Tracker: Make it Again prompt.

Final Make Nine 2023 project: jacket and pants

I’m counting this ensemble—a jacket and pants—as my final Make Nine project for 2023! I’ve had the pants pattern pieces cut out for quite a while, and the other fabrics were in the stash. Both were waiting for inspiration and motivation to strike… not to mention finding time to sew. 

Cotton/linen jacket, Make Nine 2023

Event deadline = Motivation

With my plans to attend the International Quilt Market, I had the motivation needed to get on with the sewing. It always feels a bit special to wear something “new” to a business event, so this was the perfect impetus for a sewing episode.

Patterns and materials

The pants pattern is a frequently used one for me—the Valencia pants [from The Sewing Workshop]. The Raggy Jacket is my go-to pattern for a jacket. I’ve made several jackets over the years with this pattern. The pattern pieces are sized and I’m familiar with the construction.

The Valencia Pants and Raggy Jacket patterns: both frequently used for my garment makes.

Pants and Jacket materials:

• the pants fabric is a yarn-dyed woven [Diamond Textiles]. The pants were already cut out, complete with tailor tacks! 
• the outer fabric for the jacket is a cotton/linen blend [FIGO Fabrics]
• the lining is a cotton voile [Art Gallery Fabrics]
• middle layer of the jacket was a light colored cotton quilting fabric
• the decorative quilting thread is a variegated 40 wt cotton thread [YLI]

Garment construction

The Valencia pants are a one-seam pants with a partial elastic wasteband. My hack for this pattern is the addition of two patch pockets. Since the pieces were already cut out and marked, this was a relatively quick finish.

The Valencia one-seam pants.

The jacket required more time. After laying out and cutting all the jacket pieces, quilting guidelines were marked with a Chaco Liner. I “quilt” the individual jacket pieces—fronts, back, sleeves—with the fashion fabric, a cotton or muslin middle layer, and the lining.

Marking stitching guidelines with a white Chaco liner.

The quilting stitch pattern is a combination of a straight stitch and a built-in decorative stitch on my machine. It looks a bit like barbed wire, but it complemented the graphic, wood cut design on the fabric.

Decorative stitch pattern for quilting the jacket pieces.

One of the finishing tasks for the jacket is deciding on the buttons. This is always an extensive auditioning process. (I admit I have a “healthy” button collection.)

Choosing buttons. Always, so many options!

Matching the fabric motifs

The print of this fabric made for a challenging layout process—making sure the motifs lined up. It was not the best choice of fabrics for the time constraints and deadline, but I was curious about sewing with a linen fabric and in the end, it turned out fine. I learned a lot about pattern layout and lining up motifs from making my kalamkari jacket, using the same jacket pattern.

My new cotton/linen jacket. A Make Nine 2023 finish.

Make Nine 2023 is complete!

This concludes my Make Nine Challenge for this year. My new jacket and pants are fulfilling the “UFO” prompt. It’s been a productive year.

Fulfilling the “UFO” prompt for Make Nine 2023.

Completed Make Nine 2023 tracker.

Not shopping at big stores? Make your summer wardrobe yourself!

The grass didn't have much chance to grow between my first rayon MixIt Top and my second. This is MixIt Two in another Art Gallery rayon fabric... this one from the Abloom Fusion collection.

MixIt Top from The Sewing Workshop.
Rayon fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics.

I love the summery colors of this floral rayon print. For this second make from my MixIt pattern, I added another inch of length to the sleeves. The other pattern modifications are in this post.

MixIt Top in Budquette Abloom print from Art Gallery Fabrics.

I was talking to Kim, the owner of Chattanooga Quilts this week. She was telling me that she and her daughter have decided to sew some summer dresses for themselves... since it's not quite comfortable to shop at the malls just yet.

To be honest, I can't remember the last time I shopped for clothes—either at a mall store or online. I would rather support and buy fabric at the small business quilt shops and fabric shops that I do business with... and make my own wardrobe. #lovedclotheslast #memadewardrobe

Dressed for summer in a rayon MixIt Top and the Valencia pants with pockets.

I'm wearing this second MixIt with one of my Valencia pants (pattern also from The Sewing Workshop). The fabric is a yarn-dyed woven from Diamond Textiles.

So, Yes! You CAN get fabrics for garment sewing at quilt shops—rayon, knits, linen, and top and bottom weight wovens! Art Gallery Fabrics and other fabric companies that cater to the quilting industry not only produce beautiful quilting cottons, but also fabrics suitable for garments and wearables.

If your local quilt shop hasn't stepped into carrying these substrates yet, tell them you are interested! As quilt shops and independent sewing centers begin to reopen from the lockdown, they want to know what consumers are interested in learning/making/buying so they can restock their shelves accordingly.

Reach for a rayon on your next visit... and make something summery to wear!

The Valencia Pants: a Make Nine to fill a gap

One thing that's so appealing about the Make Nine Challenge is that it's framed as "a gentle, self-guided slow fashion initiative...". Because it's a self-guided initiative, I decided to take the initiative and amend my 2019 list of makes to mirror my personal lifestyle—and fill a gap in my wardrobe. 

Me Made Valencia pants, ikat jacket and knit top.

The Valencia Pants

One of the needs in my Me Made wardrobe is pants. So, to fill in the "pants gap," I pulled out my Valencia Pants pattern [from The Sewing Workshop]—a pattern I have used before. This pattern was fitted for me in a workshop I took with Linda Lee in 2018, so the muslin making and fitting steps were eliminated for this make. 

While traveling in Kentucky on business, I bought beautiful cotton yardage at Birdsong Quilting, an independent quilt shop in Lexington, to make two pair of the Valencia. The fabrics are:

• a yarn-dyed woven [from Diamond Textiles], and 
• a 4.5 oz/sqm cotton blend [from the Denim Studio at Art Gallery Fabrics].

Left: Valencia pants in yarn-dyed cotton from Diamond Textiles.

Right: Valencia pants in Wicked Sky cotton blend from Art Gallery Fabrics.

Left: Valencia pants in yarn-dyed cotton from Diamond Textiles.
Right: Valencia pants in Wicked Sky cotton blend from Art Gallery Fabrics.

Valencia Pants pattern hack: Patch Pockets
For my lifestyle, I need pockets in pants (otherwise, where do you put your Kleenex or handkerchief?) The Valencia is a one-seam pant (the inseam/crotch seam), so to add pockets to this garment, a patch pocket is required because there are no side seams for a side pocket.

I like to include a little surprise by using a fun print for a pocket lining. The pocket for the charcoal pants has this cotton voile fabric lining called He Loves Me Plum [Art Gallery Fabrics].

Fabric lining cut slightly smaller than the outside pocket piece.

The lining piece was cut slightly smaller than the outside pocket piece so when turned and pressed, the outside fabric would roll slightly to the pocket inside. It takes a bit of pinning and fabric maneuvering to match up the edges before sewing, but it's not difficult.

Pinning the pocket lining to its corresponding outside fashion fabric.

On occasion, I have included a piping or faux piping to a patch pocket to expose a hint of a contrasting lining fabric on the outside of the garment. Getting creative with a pocket lining is a fun and easy pattern hack!

The fashion fabric on the pocket outside is rolled slightly to the inside (lining side) of the pocket.

For the other pants, I used a cotton Australian aboriginal print for the pocket lining.

I add two front patch pockets to my Valencia pants.

Two front patch pockets were added to each pair of my new Valencias—one for Kleenex and the other for my car keys.

A sewing workshop with Linda Lee prompts looking at quilting cottons in a new way

Our quilt-making foremothers used fabric scraps from sewing clothes to make quilts. The clothing came first... then came the quilts. As quiltmakers, we naturally look at the cotton fabrics found in quilt shops from the viewpoint of making a quilt. But there are a lot of quilters who began sewing clothing—for themselves or for family—and ventured into quilting later. So, why don’t we look at those same bolts of cotton prints with a garment in mind? Good question! Let’s change that way of thinking.

Valencia Pants and Siena Shirt patterns from The Sewing Workshop.
Cotton fabrics from Diamond Textiles (left) and M&S Textiles Australia (center and right).

For Christmas, I received a wonderful gift from my husband. It was a workshop called “Exploring Fit, Fashion and Finish” with Linda Lee, owner of The Sewing Workshop. It was fabulous (the gift and the workshop)!

2018 Shakerag workshop with Linda Lee.

Not knowing exactly what might inspire me on this sewing adventure, I filled a suitcase with various fabrics—all cottons that can be found at most any quilt shop—packed my sewing machine, serger and a handful of matching threads and proceeded to the workshop... to explore garment possibilities under the guidance and tutelage of Linda Lee, a renowned sewing expert.

Overview of pants patterns available from The Sewing Workshop.

The Valencia Pants

My first goal, as was with many of the workshop attendees, was to fit a pant patten and make pair of pants. After Linda reviewed the features of all the pant patterns from The Sewing Workshop, I chose the Valencia Pants. It is a one-seam pant with a flat front and a partial elastic waistband. A good beginner pattern. My fabric choice was a yarn-dyed woven from Diamond Textiles.

Laying out the Valencia pants pattern.

I made the pants in one day and wore them the next.

Valencia pants. Yarn-dyed cotton from Diamond Textiles.

I added my must-have pockets with a contrast fabric piping detail. The pockets actually took longer to make than the pants themselves—really!

I drafted a pocket pattern for my Valencia pants.
A contrasting piping (Bush Camp yellow from M&S Textiles) 

The Siena Shirt

The next project for me was a top. In analyzing the schematic drawing for the Siena Shirt, this pattern lent itself to using either a single fabric or multiple, coordinating prints. My table mate, Alice, suggested combining these two prints from M&S Textiles Australia, Fire Dreaming (center front) and Plum and Bush Banana (front band, collar and side panels).

The Siena Shirt (from The Sewing Workshop) with fabrics from M&S Textiles Australia.

Here is a photo of the first try-on of my new Siena Shirt. The buttons and buttonholes need to be added and then it will be ready to wear. The fabric is soft and has good body and drape for this style of top.

First try-on of the Siena Shirt.

About The Sewing Workshop patterns
All of the workshop attendees created multiple garments during the workshop and I took home a few more of Linda's patterns for future projects. The patterns include tissue pattern pieces and construction instructions. Linda also did a trunk show for the class that gave ideas for additional modifications—lengthen/shorten, embellishments, fabric options, etc. A few of the things (and there are many more) I like best about The Sewing Workshop patterns are:

• many of the garments can be made with either wovens or knits. This makes them very versatile.
• many have multiple garments included in a single pattern envelop (pants and a coat, two different shirts, a sweater and a tank top). This makes them a great buy!
• finishing details are included in the written instructions at the corresponding step of the construction process.
• the patterns are sized and graded for "real" women. There were workshop participants of various sizes, shapes and maturity and several of them made pieces using the same pattern. The garments were appropriate, looked good and fit everyone.

Linda Lee (left) and workshop assistant, Diane Hall.

Take a spin on The Sewing Workshop website and think about using cotton quilting fabrics for clothing with these patterns. You might be surprised how nicely they work together. I've used fabrics from Diamond Textiles, M&S Textiles Australia and Art Gallery for garments, but there are others you might try.

Thank you to our talented, funny and generous instructor, Linda Lee, the workshop assistant, Diane Hall, and my fellow classmates for an inspiring, informative and enjoyable sewing workshop. My sewing machine, serger and a pile of quilting cottons are ready to go!