Sunday, November 5, 2023

Final Make Nine 2023 project: jacket and pants

I’m counting this ensemble—a jacket and pantsas my final Make Nine project for 2023! I’ve had the pants pattern pieces cut out for quite a while, and the other fabrics were in the stash. Both were waiting for inspiration and motivation to strike… not to mention finding time to sew. 

Cotton/linen jacket, Make Nine 2023

Event deadline = Motivation

With my plans to attend the International Quilt Market, I had the motivation needed to get on with the sewing. It always feels a bit special to wear something “new” to a business event, so this was the perfect impetus for a sewing episode.

Patterns and materials

The pants pattern is a frequently used one for me—the Valencia pants [from The Sewing Workshop]. The Raggy Jacket is my go-to pattern for a jacket. I’ve made several jackets over the years with this pattern. The pattern pieces are sized and I’m familiar with the construction.

The Valencia Pants and Raggy Jacket patterns: both frequently used for my garment makes.

Pants and Jacket materials:

  • the pants fabric is a yarn-dyed woven [Diamond Textiles]. The pants were already cut out, complete with tailor tacks! 
  • the outer fabric for the jacket is a cotton/linen blend [FIGO Fabrics]
  • the lining is a cotton voile [Art Gallery Fabrics]
  • middle layer of the jacket was a light colored cotton quilting fabric
  • the decorative quilting thread is a variegated 40 wt cotton thread [YLI]

Garment construction

The Valencia pants are a one-seam pants with a partial elastic wasteband. My hack for this pattern is the addition of two patch pockets. Since the pieces were already cut out and marked, this was a relatively quick finish.

The Valencia one-seam pants.

The jacket required more time. After laying out and cutting all the jacket pieces, quilting guidelines were marked with a Chaco Liner. I “quilt” the individual jacket pieces—fronts, back, sleeveswith the fashion fabric, a cotton or muslin middle layer, and the lining.

Marking stitching guidelines with a white Chaco liner.

The quilting stitch pattern is a combination of a straight stitch and a built-in decorative stitch on my machine. It looks a bit like barbed wire, but it complemented the graphic, wood cut design on the fabric.

Decorative stitch pattern for quilting the jacket pieces.

One of the finishing tasks for the jacket is deciding on the buttons. This is always an extensive auditioning process. (I admit I have a “healthy” button collection.)

Choosing buttons. Always, so many options!

Matching the fabric motifs

The print of this fabric made for a challenging layout process—making sure the motifs lined up. It was not the best choice of fabrics for the time constraints and deadline, but I was curious about sewing with a linen fabric and in the end, it turned out fine. I learned a lot about pattern layout and lining up motifs from making my kalamkari jacket, using the same jacket pattern.

My new cotton/linen jacket. A Make Nine 2023 finish.

Make Nine 2023 is complete!

This concludes my Make Nine Challenge for this year. My new jacket and pants are fulfilling the “UFO” prompt. It’s been a productive year.

Fulfilling the “UFO” prompt for Make Nine 2023.

Completed Make Nine 2023 tracker.

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