Discovering the lightning bolt stitch—and remembering to use it when sewing knits

The lightning stitch, or lightning bolt stitch.
I knew of this stitch. I've heard it referenced many times in tutorials and TV programs about sewing with knit fabrics. I just never remembered to use it when I had a knit project under the needle... until recently.

The Lightning Bolt stitch is great for sewing knits.

I had a knit top already cut out just waiting for some sewing time. It's made from one of Art Gallery Fabrics' solid color knits (one of the fabric companies I rep). The color is orange creamsicle. I've sewn several long and short sleeve tops with AGF knits and my collection continues to grow.

Knit top in orange creamsicle by Art Gallery Fabrics.

These knit tops are soft, comfortable, wash up well and are easy to pack for traveling. This cotton fabric has a wee bit (5%) of spandex in it which gives it stability and memory... and makes it easy to sew.

Decorative stitching on yarn-dyed woven fabrics.

Anyway... back to the lightning stitch and how I happened to discover it...

Lately, I've been immersed with stitching on yarn-dyed wovens from Diamond Textiles (another fabric company I rep). This project features decorative machine stitching on 4-patch blocks. It's an exercise in color and contrast—thread color vs. stitch vs. fabric color and pattern, and how each plays off the other. It also got me using the myriad of decorative stitches that are built into my sewing machine again. (We just don't use these stitch beauties enough!) While experimenting with stitch selections, I noticed stitch #17 on my machine.

Behold! The lightning bolt stitch!

[I guess that lightning bolt finally hit me.]

So my pre-cut knit top was an opportunity to try out stitch #17—the lighting bolt stitch. I used this stitch for the armhole, side and shoulder seams. Then, the seam allowances were edge finished on the serger for a neater inside. The bottom hem and the sleeve hems were serged and turned it under once. From the right side of the work, the hems were sewn down by machine using the lightning stitch. The bottom hem has a fusible tricot strip inside to keep it from rolling.

Using the lighting stitch on a knit top.

The lightning stitch takes a bit longer to sew because it goes forward and back as it stitches. But it is neat, strong and still allows the fabric to stretch without the stitches popping. I think I like it better than a small zigzag (or wobble stitch) that I had been using. It has a more polished, finished look.

Finished knit T-shirt ready to wear.

Another knit top for my wardrobe and another stitch experience added to my garment sewing skill set. Good ol' stitch #17 did a good job for me. 

Don't wait for the lightning bolt to hit you in the head—try this stitch on your next knit project.

Making it "My Tee"

I scored yardage of three beautiful, buttery-soft knits by Art Gallery Fabrics. Yep, there are quilt shops venturing into knits... and stocking their shelves with "other" types of fabrics in addition to our beloved quilting cottons. This is very on-trend and really exciting news for sewers and makers!

Front: My Tee made with Morse Dot Sun by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics.
Back: existing ready-made top from my wardrobe.

With not much time for sewing these days, I wanted an easy pattern for a Tee or knit pullover top. Someone suggested (yes, Walter, I used your idea) to make a pattern from an existing top. Nothing ventured nothing gained, right?

Making a pattern from an existing knit t-shirt.

Making a pattern from an existing top was actually quite easy to do. It also cut out a lot of "futsing around" time that comes with having to fit a standard commercial pattern to your not-so-standard body. (The necessary evil part of making a first-time garment that I dislike doing.)

There are many on-line sources for quick tutorials on doing making patterns from existing clothes. Here is one from the experts at Threads Magazine. Here is another. Or do a quick Google search to find something that makes sense to you.

TIP: One thing I have learned through modifying and fitting my garment patterns is to make sure the front and back pattern pieces where the shoulders meet are the same width.

Make sure the front and back shoulders are the same width.

I did follow the instruction sheet from a commercial pattern for the step-by-step garment construction. The sleeves were set in rather than attaching them flat and then sewing up the side seam. This works better for me. TIP: use the free-arm on your sewing machine for set-in sleeves.

The commercial pattern also provided insight for creating a neckband to enclose the raw edges at the neckline. This was similar to attaching a binding on a quilt—a process in which I'm familiar. TIP: You can also use the fabric yardage information on the pattern envelope to estimate yardage needed for your project.

Using a commercial pattern for the assembly steps.

TIPs: Use a ballpoint sewing machine needle made for sewing knits. If you have a serger, use it to finish the seam allowances for a nice, clean finish on the inside (it's fast, too). Otherwise, the zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine will work.

The pattern instructions also said to slightly stretch the fabric as you sew so the stitching won't break as the knit stretches. I'm not totally convinced on this as the hems on my Tee were ruffly in some places. I'll have to research this more. All in all, the process was painless and I'm happy with the final result. 

Morse Dot Sun by Katarina Roccella in knit for Art Gallery Fabrics.

With the weather turning colder, these other Art Gallery knits are slated for long sleeve Tees. These knit prints are from the Etno (front) by Pat Bravo and Forest Floor (mushrooms) by Bonnie Christine collections.

Etno and Forest Floor knits from Art Gallery.

Do you see a knit project in your future? I can highly recommend sewing and wearing the knits from Art Gallery Fabrics. Ask YLQS [your local quilt shop] if they will carry knits... and be sure you support them when they do.